The advice from Cooinda staff was to drive on to Twin Falls (see map above, middle RH side), it would take a little longer but it is a far better water fall and is currently running water. It was a 50 km drive on an unsealed road to the Rangers station and then an additional 14 km over a 4WD track and through at least one water crossing running at approximately 840 mm deep then into the falls by ferry. The last bit was to take a ferry up the gorge and then walk 600 mts over boulders and rock ledges into the falls.
Off we set and it was not to long before we met with the Ranger who advised us we would have no worries getting through the water crossing in the Navara. "Just take it slowly and you'll be OK, not like the bloke yesty, who went bull at a gate and then we had to drive out and pull him out!", Don't wana do that for you!".
Off we set down the 4WD track barely wide enough for our ute, very windy, bit of sand here and there and many crests. Half way along we met up with a big 4WD Bus for which we had to head to the scrub to let it pass.
Passing the 4WD Bus |
Through the water crossing, a first time for this Navara and yes there were no leaking doors, WHOHOO!
Water Crossing 840 mm deep |
It was not too long before we had made it through to the car park for the ferry. We had also been told to pack a lunch and have it on the beach once we made it into the falls. So out came the backpacks and lunch bag and off we set down the track to find the ferry. About 200 mts later through creek beds and scrub we came to an opening on the river where some 8 other people were waiting with the Aboriginal skipper and guide. He runs the ferry to a time table of sort and also responds to calls on demand particularly for the return journey. The return ferry trip costs $12 each and well worth it!
Our ferry and guide awaits |
Native black breem |
While waiting one could not help but notice how crystal clear the river water was. You could clearly see black bream swimming by in it. Fishing and canoeing has now been banned due to the lack of respect by some people in the past. So access now is by the Parks ferry only.
It was not long before we boarded and set off up stream on the Jim Jim Creek, which is a tributary off of the South Alligator River with our guide telling us the history and stories associated with his homeland. The Rainbow Serpent rated a story again because she was responsible for creating passages through rocks and formed water holes in the Kakadu landscape. He also warned us that it is possible that salt water crocodiles were present in the creek and water fall area and as such sternly warned us not to attempt to go swimming. To reinforce this he pointed out the crocodile trap in the river and advising of another up in the water fall pool area. He also told us that they used to net the area off until they found a big salty on the up stream side of the net. They had learnt to get their snout under the net and get through.
Crocodile trap ready |
Gliding up the gorge |
Yes the gorge just keeps coming! |
Eagle overhead |
The views going up the gorge were just stunning. There was a large eagle keeping watch over the gorge and falls as we alighted from the boat.
"Your on your own now and don't forget to call me when you want to come back or you will have to wait for the last boat tonight", with a big grin on his face! "Just follow those rock tracks there and you will get to the falls.
Off we set scrambling up over large rocks and rock ledges up hill and down dale for some 600 mts. The temperature was rising and the sun was very hot in the gorge the falls had cut out over some millions of years.
Rock ledges to encounter |
Rocks and more ledges |
Soon we had to encounter a man made pontoon raft around one section of the cliff face that was not passable. It was not long now up over the last few rocks and ledges and we were at a stunning beach and pool at the bottom of the falls. There were not two falls but 3 and they were simply stunning.
Pontoon raft and bridge for the final walk in |
Twin falls |
Twin Falls with the third fall to the right |
Pandanas on the beach |
A red dragonfly joins us for lunch |
Yours truly walking up the beach to lunch |
We walked around and took photos, sat in the shade for lunch and all too soon it was time for the return journey. Like clock work the guide was back at the ferry landing place about 2 minutes after we arrived for our return voyage and walk to our cars. Soon we were back on the 4WD track and venturing into the water crossing and on our way back to Cooinda. What a great day we had.
On our way back we called into the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre. What a beautiful place to visit. We loved the entrance sculpture telling the story of the Aboriginal 6 seasons in Kakadu. The six seasons being;
- BANGGERRENG "Knockem down storm season"
- YEGGE "Cooler but still humid season"
- WURRGENG "Cold weather season"
- GURRUNG "Hot dry weather season"
- GUNUMELENG "Pre monsoon storm season"
- GUDJEWG "Monsoon season"
The aboriginal seasons |
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